Pattern and Structure: The "Skeleton" of a Jacket
A high-end custom jacket 's fit is not simply a matter of "S/M/L". It needs to balance static aesthetics with dynamic comfort. 1. Shoulder design Raglan sleeves : The sleeves extend diagonally from the neckline to the armpits, offering a high degree of freedom of movement and are suitable for athletic jackets (such as baseball jackets). The challenge lies in the three-dimensional tailoring of the shoulder curve to avoid wrinkles and bunching. Set-in Sleeve : The sleeve is sewn separately at the shoulder joint, with clean lines, suitable for formal wear or slim-fit jackets. The sleeve cap should have a "gain" – that is, the armhole curve is slightly longer than the armhole by 1-2cm, forming a full shoulder through gathering. This is the key to demonstrating the level of craftsmanship. Kimono sleeve : The front and back panels are integrated with the sleeve, without shoulder seams. It is commonly seen in Japanese-style jackets or Zen-inspired designs. It requi...